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Carnaval Autla

December 19, 2024 by Jessenia Varela-Gomez

In February of 2024, I traveled to Autlan de Navarro, Jalisco, Mexico for the second time. I spent two weeks with family and enjoying the fun event known as Carnaval. During this 11-day event, I spent the morning getting ready for the late night Torros and Corridas Formales and then ended the night with roaming through the Callejon del Vicio, which is just three streets full of tables and bars and food vendors and lots of different styles of bands and music. In fact, the event is so big that people from all over will come and experience it.

I arrived on February 9, and on that same night, we were already out and about. My family is in a band known as Banda Autlan, which has been around for over 100 years with many different directors including my grandfather and currently my Uncle Jaime. During the Corridas Formales, my family would perform while the toreros did their act. Toreros have been along part of this Carnivals culture. It begins with everyone gathering in the Plaza de Torros named after a famous bull fighter who died by the bull stabbing him back in 1939 and was known as “El Torero de Mexico.” During these games, there's like four or so guys dressed in a traditional outfit that helps distract the bull, so the main bull fighter can stab the bull with three flags after which they try and stab the bull with a sword. After the bull is down the distractors come and stab the bull in the head killing it. The two big horses come out and drag the now dead bull away. The band will play traditional songs during the fighting although a lot of the bull fighters really enjoy hearing the same song known as “Viva Autlan” a lovely omen to their beloved city.

After this fun event, we go home and often change to go out to the “Callejon del Vicio” with my cousins. We walk the stalls and sit with everyone and listen to all the different music and bands. On one night, after the bull show, we were sneaked into the concerts after the show. We got to see Espinoza Paz live and the traditional beauty show where they crown a “Reyna del Carnaval” for free. It was a fun night and afterwards my cousins and I ate tacos and walked home. I love being able to have the freedom to walk around any day at any time and not have to worry. It's very different from the culture here in the United States.

This is how we spent every night of carnival, going to the corridas formales and then spending time in the Callejon. In the morning, they have Los Torros del Once, where they do bull riding and have live bands and people can go down to the bullpen and dance. In all, Carnaval was a fun experience, and I enjoyed having new experiences and going places with the band for free as well as spending time roaming the streets and meeting new people. I cannot wait until I can go back again and attend the morning shows

December 19, 2024 /Jessenia Varela-Gomez
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